Ingvar Loco Nordin & Anna Nygren
Lisa's Helmet Hike
(Mårma - Three Pass Trail 2011)

Down the south side of Mårma

(photo: anna nygren)

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Chapter 10

Yellow line shows the distance covered in chapter 10, while yellow and red lines combined show the total hiking distance of the day.

4 August 2011 (continuation)

Our direction of descent, and across the giant rock field, right to the left of those two lakes

As above, but a little more to the left (east)

Anna on the Mårma south side descent


We began the descent into what has been characterized as Lapland’s largest rock field; about a square kilometer of rocks of varying sizes, some as large as Volkswagens; others of more timid dimensions. Looking out across these barren lands I was thinking about future expeditions to planet Mars, perhaps in thirty years from now.

Loco - myself! - down the southern Mårma descent

(photo: anna nygren)

To the left (east) across the wastelands, we could make out The Visttasjohka Delta all the way down by Nikkaluokta Sami Village far away.

Down ahead, on the far side of the huge field of rocks, we saw the two lakes we were supposed to aim for in our crossing, and the greenish hill by them that we would rise above after that. This was still hours away though, and we began the descent from Mårma on its south side at 11:45 AM. It was steep indeed, and extremely rocky, with boulders of a size that are hard to engage, simply because they’re so large and massive, with lots of air in between them; gaps that you’re not allowed slipping into. That is one aspect of mountain hiking that is always with you; that you can’t make even one single mistake! Concentration and focus are lightning sharp during these passages, and that drains you more than pure physical workouts.

It was much steeper here than the photo conveys! I chose to walk on the rocks instead of on the extremely steep and slippery sand


Rocks standing on end, forcing a detour!


Keep on truckin', Mama!


Step lightly...

After managing the straining distance across, we arrived at the stream from the lake just below the small glacier that clung to the steep incline of the east side of Vássačohkka Mountain. We drank and filled our water flasks. That’s when we noticed a band of reindeer way up high on that steepness, moving along with apparent ease, on a slant that looked quite dangerous, as if death lurked around those reindeer unknowingly to them. We watched them for a long time as they moved across the danger zone way up. They made it across, and finally disappeared onto the dark color of rocks, where we couldn’t make them out anymore.

A band of reindeers high, high up on a treacherous glacier precipice!

Time was 1:20 PM when we reached the stream on the south side of the rock field.

Looking back from whence we came


A beautiful view unto the hanging glacier of Vássačohkka


Strange, wavy traces in the glacier ice. I have to research the origin of those. Write me if you know!


We continued now up a moderate slope, grassy with inserted rocks here and there, and Anna referred to Irish landscapes. It was a relief from all the grayness and rockiness for sure, and on the south side of this green hill we had our lunch and a long break, and I also tended to my feet again. They kept up unexpectedly good.

Anna moving up a suddenly green and fertile land


Anna caught a glance of me as a free rover through these parts!

(photo: anna nygren)


Lunch overlooking Lakes Vássabahtajávri and Vássajávri

(photo: anna nygren)


Descending, looking to the right (west) into the valley of Lake Vássajávri


Looking left (east) in the same valley. We were heading across the land (actually a fording place) between the lakes right ahead, and up around the mountain straight on


After lunch we got on our way, aiming down toward a strip of dry land between the last of the larger lakes of that valley and the final, very small lake. There are four lakes in that valley, two larger and two small. The larger one we’d pass by is called Vássajávri, and I hear people sometimes tent by it. We met nobody, though, this whole long day.

Lake Vássajávri seen from the fording place in a west-north-westerly direction

(photo: anna nygren)


Moss and lichen on a rock near Lake Vássajávri


After passing between those lakes, we engaged an incline again, up around The Vássanjunji Mountain. The views from up there were strictly incredible, as we could see clear down to Nikkaluokta in the east. Looking back from where we’d come was just as breathtaking, as we could take in the whole distance from The Mårma Pass, with the descent from its south side, the huge rock field, the Irish hill and the descent from that, and the ascent to where we were – in just one glance.

The view all the way back to The Mårma Pass, across Lake Vássajávri's small eastern neighbor lake, over the green hill, the giant rock field and the ascent to the pass, from the slopes of Mount Vássanjunnji as we rounded it

From the slopes high up on Vássanjunnji Mountain, looking all the way to Nikkaluokta Sami village far away in the distance, at the end (or beginning) of The Vistasvággi Valley, out east

To chapter 11