Ingvar Loco Nordin & Anna Nygren
Lisa's Helmet Hike
(Mårma - Three Pass Trail 2011)

Anna & Loco back at the place of origin of their relationship; Nallo

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Chapter 13

Yellow line shows the distance covered in chapter 13, while yellow and red lines combined show the total hiking distance of the day.

5 August (continuation)

The familiar outline of The Tjäktjatjåkka (Čeakčačohkka) Summits rose higher as we drew closer, and soon we made out The Nallo Hut with outhouses.
At 5 PM we waded the wide stream from up in Šielmmávággi, rounding the hut and finally approaching it from below, where it lies on top a little hill in the midst of the valley. We held hands walking up to the hut, feeling the significance of the place; Nallo in the wilderness, where our love story began; where we met in 2009 and then in 2010, now going there together in 2011.


Good old Nallo Hut

The host (proving to be a hostess) was out on a day hike, so we chose a room, or rather a section with four bunks and a curtain that could be pulled, making the area feel separate from the kitchen, and placed our backpacks there. I pulled out my sleeping bag and placed it on the same bunk where I slept last summer. We got that whole part of he hut to ourselves; a rare luxury that had been bestowed on us back in Vistas as well.

When we were ready for some coffee and tea I shot a few pictures of Anna sitting by the kitchen window at the very place she occupied last year when I asked her if I could photograph her and she said it was ok so long as I didn’t publish it on the Internet. I recalled that I’d though that she was one of those shy and perhaps even paranoid types that hailed privacy first of all, but that, of course, proved all wrong down the line! Now she’s the lady that teaches me how to ride a horse up in Northbothnia, and the one that gives me chores on her estate, the one that shares my bed and my kitchen table, the one whose hair spreads across her pillow “like a sleepy golden storm” as Leonard Cohen put it.



Anna where I photographed her last year, when we were strangers

The hostess, who had returned from a day hike back and forth to The Unna Räita Hut, came by to collect the fee. She was a 54 year old lady with blonde hair and a healthy apparition, looking about 40. We only found out about her age because when asked how long she’d been a hostess she answered “thirty years”… Some people really retain their youth visibly; others hidden behind wrinkles!
Anyway, we also discussed our planned hike for the next day, which was to walk to The Unna Räita Hut and then, after a meal, climb The Pyramid Pass between The Pyramid Mountain and The Knife’s Edge Mountain (Knivkammen), as part of The JoJo Trail, or, as it is also called, The Three Pass Trail.
The hostess discouraged us a bit when she told us that she’d met some seasoned mountain people that same day over by The Unna Räita Hut – among them a glaciologist – who’d told her that one could not climb The Pyramid Pass now, because high temperatures had molten away the layer of snow on the glacier ice more than usual. I knew what she talked about, because I had seen that steep, curving wall of a glacier a few times before, with lots of snow, and with less. I had actually done the dreaded and loved Three Pass Trail once before, with a German guy I met in the mountains, but the opposite direction, from Tarfala to Unna Räita. That was in 2008, and I climbed down The Pyramid Pass in good snow, and with my crampons mounted. It had been a very lofty and somewhat scary experience, but not hard, since the snow covered the ice good and gave your boots – even without crampons – a firm grip on the incredible steepness that curved down and out below you like the inside of a bowl.
Last year, though I met a couple of North American (USA and Canada) nature scientists (South American insects, among other things) who had just come that way. That man and woman had climbed The Pyramid Pass on the rocks to the right of the ice, and didn’t think much about it, so maybe our anticipation, based on hard stories told us, was un-called for. We’d see. The Nallo hostess was very interested in getting information about whether we succeeded up he pass or not, for technical and informative purposes, so I thought we’d try to contact her later with the news, somehow.

Anna checking pictures she'd taken





An evening view towards Šielmmávággi Valley

(photo: anna nygren)

At 10 PM I photographed the shadows of mountains on the mountains around The Nallo Hut and the red-capped summits in the low sunlight. We read our books in bed half an hour after that; I Haruki Murakami’s short story collection After The Quake, and Anna Deepak Chopra’s SynchroDestiny in a Swedish translation.

Anna reading Deepak Chopra's SynchroDestiny before going to sleep at Nallo


To chapter 14