Ingvar Loco Nordin & Anna Nygren
Lisa's Helmet Hike
(Mårma - Three Pass Trail 2011)

Early morn by the Nallo hut, looking down Stuor Reaiddávággi toward Vistas

13 15 16 17 18 19

Chapter 14

Yellow line shows the distance covered in chapter 14, while yellow and orange lines combined show the total hiking distance of the day.

6 August 2011

We left in the misty morning

The day dawned in some mist, but it seemed to rise, so chances were good it would dissipate later in the day. Same thing happened last year, as Anna and I had done our first common hike, to The Unna Räita Cabin.
We left Nallo at about 7:30 AM.

The Nallo needle showing!

After we’d made some gain on the slow incline along the stream from Lake Reaiddájávri, The Nallo Needle became visible through an opening on high in the rolling mist behind us, in a magical or shamanistic view.

Clearing up right before the fording place

We forded the stream and headed up the moderate but draining ascent into The Unna Reaiddávággi Valley, first on grassy land with sprayed small rocks, and then on terraces of flat, water-ground bedrock. The weather cleared up good, and sheer beauty appeared all around; snow-capped mountains, glaciers, streams. The Tjäktjatjåkka (Čeakčačohkka) Mountain and The Čeakcabákti Glacier were especially distinctive features behind us, back across Stuor Reaiddávággi Valley.

Anna fording her way up onto the ascent of Unna Reaiddávággi

Looking back down Stuor Reaiddávággi towards Nallo



Anna facing up to Unna Reaiddávággi

At about 10 AM we’d come as far as the giant end moraine of he unnamed glacier that clings to the steep slope below The Sentry Mountain (Vaktposten). It contains an icy core that never melts, and according to Claes Grundsten, it’s one of the biggest moraine ridges in Lapland.

Mounts Čeakcabákti and Tjäktjatjåkka (Čeakčačohkka), with The Čeakcabákti Glacier, back across Stuor Reaiddávággi Valley, seen from up in Unna Reaiddávággi


Old man in dark glasses approaching!

(photo: anna nygren)

The Čeakcabákti Glacier

The heavy stillness of the wild and ragged landscape of Lapland appears to be the result of either fearsome forces that were in play long ago, or occurrences that are so slow that you don’t notice, like glacier motion or erosion. Sometimes, though, you hear the ice cracking deep down in a glacier, or see a rock tumbling down a precipice, and you begin to appreciate the mountain dynamics, of which the now is a snapshot of time itself. Otherwise it is water, of course, that gives you a more direct feeling of changes, as a minuscule trickle in the morning can turn into a wild torrent in the afternoon, as a result of rainfall somewhere up in the mountains.

Almost the breadth of Unna Reaiddávággi in one shot


Mount 1825


The dark, ominous land of the Sentry Mountain (Vaktposten) end moraine



Anna stepping onto one of the liberating snow fields along the monstrous end moraine


We found some considerable snowfields along the giant end moraine, which we thankfully treaded, temporarily liberated of the rocks. We noticed at this time, about 10:30 AM, that fog once again gathered and began to close in. It was no more than a case of diminishing comfort, because I knew the valley so well, and its nature, with high walls along it, made orientation easy anyhow. Besides, we had compasses and maps, so we just moved on. Anna got us the compass direction, and we looked at the instrument from time to time. Visibility was perhaps fifteen or twenty meters at worst.

Treading on hard snow; the highway of Unna Reaiddávággi


Looking back from where we arrived


Stepping into the fog

We knew we only had to reach the lake, simply called 1226, stating its elevation, to find The Unna Räita Cabin, following the left (east) shore in a slow curve.

The Unna Räita Cabin more sensed than seen across Lake 1226


The mist slowly dissipated, revealing The Unna Räita Cabin and its storm-wrecked toilet

Suddenly a kind of peculiar ripple appeared in the mist, like a mystical, silent motion, or a malfunction of vision, or like that murmuring sound in Myst, the computer game that my son Ivan used to play when he was a little boy. We had come upon the shore of the lake, and all of a sudden a faint object started to become visible, gradually, a few hundred meters across the waters; The Unna Räita Cabin. That felt really good, and our orientation through the fog had been spot-on.

A tongue of the great Reaiddá Glacier hanging into lake 1226 through the mist


At around noon we reached The Unna Räita Cabin, which clearly is one of my favourite spots in the world, providing cosy shelter in a land that is so wild it could be mistaken for Spitsbergen (Svalbard)

Approaching The Unna Räita Cabin around Lake 1226


Anna and I arriving at the longed-for Unna Räita Cabin


Home, sweet home!




On our way again, looking back across Lake 1226


To chapter 15