Ingvar Loco Nordin & Anna Nygren
Lisa's Helmet Hike
(Mårma - Three Pass Trail 2011)

Anna at Tarfala breakfast very early in the morning, before we walked 24 kilometers to Nikkaluokta

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Chapter 19

Yellow line shows the distance covered in chapter 3, which also is the total hiking distance of the day.

10 august 2011

We got out of our bunks just before 5 AM the next morning, and had our breakfast at 5:30 AM, before getting on our way at about 6:45 AM.

Military tents below The Great Glacier (Storglaciären) side moraine

Right on the south side of The Tarfala Scientific Station we saw a military camp below The Great Glacier (Storglaciären) (or rather on the north side of its side moraine) on the other side of The Darfaljohka stream; a collection of twelve green tents of various sizes, and one sentry walking about in the cool morning air.

It started to rain, while the sun was visibly shining down in The Láddjuvággi Valley, a few kilometers away and a few hundred meters below. After that we experienced a mixture of showers and sunny weather off and on for the rest of the hike, which was a fast one, for us to make the 4 PM bus from Nikkaluokta to Kiruna City.


Glacier with spooky mouth hanging from Kebnetjåkka (Giebmečohkka), not present on the map


Same spooky glacier as seen from the Tarfala trail, i.e. the path from Tarfala down into Láddjuvággi


Happy Anna descending through The Darfálvággi Valley


Tired Loco down the same descent

(photo: anna nygren)

I became enormously tired during this brisk walk, and pretty irritated, even angry. I couldn’t get my backpack – which felt too heavy again, even though it as lighter than ever since the food was finished – to fit well, and I got cramps in my back. Finally I realized that there was no point in holding my anger back, so I just hurried along, trying not to give a shit about all the pains, swearing and cursing to myself – and sure enough, that helped me, getting me on due course again, putting kilometer to kilometer behind, but we didn’t enjoy much conversation this day, not until we reached the western boat landing of Lake Láddjujávri, where locals have built a small restaurant for seriously hungry hikers. The time was about 2 PM, and while Anna visited he toilet, I went into the establishment and ordered muffins, rolls, chocolate bars and wonderful waffles with whipped cream and cloudberries for the two of us, plus, of course, coffee for me. Anna prefers tea.

Civilization at the esatern shore of Lake Láddjujávri, with lots of goodies!

We enjoyed all the goodies sitting at a table with a couple in their late 20s, who’d been to Kebnekaise for the ascent up The Western Route, which they had managed, taking a lot of pictures with a system camera that the lady carried.

After this wonderful break we got lots of new energy, and hiked the last five kilometers easily, arriving at Nikkaluokta in good time for the bus. I went into the store to buy a fresh t-shirt, but sizes small and extra large were exactly the same size, so I smelled something fishy, and couldn’t find a t-shirt that fit me anyway, so on a whim I bought some jewellery; a painted stone heart for Anna instead, to show her some of the appreciation she really had earned.

The bus left Nikkaluokta at 4 PM, and we soon arrived at the train station in Kiruna, despite the on and off character of he trip; the asphalt having been scraped off for shorter or longer stretches at least fifty times during those 60 kilometers, for renovation of the road, making the bus slow down and speed up.

We took the train to Boden shortly after arrival in Kiruna, and Anna’s daughter met up at the Boden station and drove us home to Niemisel, where we greeted the animals; three horses, two dogs and two cats, before going to bed after a seriously strenuous but also wonderful hike.

photo: anna nygren


A few days after arriving home to Anna's farm in Niemisel I slept a night with the horses; Grip, Torre and Dolittle; only Grip showing here

(photo: anna nygren)

Two weeks later I arrived at Arlanda Airport and took the fast shuttle into the city. I waited for the train right beside Sami artist Åsa Simma, whom I’d interviwed back in 2004. She had become old. I didn’t say hello. I wonder what would have happened if I’d done so. Probably nothing.

To chapter 1

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